Outer Coastal Plain AVA (N.J.): 2010 Symposium Report

Dr. Gregory Jones during the "Climate Component of Terroir" Seminar.

   

© 2010 Donofrio

Who: Outer Coastal Plain Vineyard Association

What: Wine Growing Symposium "Bordeaux-An Old World Terroir with Lessons for New Jersey"

Where: Rutgers-New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station, Bridgeton, N.J.

When: Sat., March 27, 2010

Why: To share information and discuss the latest research that points to similarities between the Outer Coastal Plain AVA of N.J. and areas of Bordeaux, France...

At the symposium last Saturday, several dozen growers, winemakers, students and enthusiasts eagerly soaked up the latest research to guide Outer Coastal Plain grape growers. The symposium hosted several experts, teachers and consultants who gave lectures concerning "terroir comparisons" between New Jersey and Bordeaux.

Judging from the information shared during the symposium, it seems pretty clear that growing Bordeaux varietals in N.J. can be sustainable and the wines crafted from them can certainly achieve high quality in well-chosen sites.

Confirmation of the quality potential for me came by way of the tasting table. I was pleasantly surprsied at the jump in quality I recognized from several new releases from N.J. wineries who are making wines with Bordeaux varietals.

Tasting Notes/Seminar Notes coming soon...

• 
  
  Optimizing New Jersey Viticulture for Quality Wine Production
• 
  
  Dr. Lawrence Coia
• 
  
  President and co-founder of Outer Coastal Plain Vineyard Association
• 
  
  Owner of Coia Vineyards (Vineland, N.J.)
• 
  
  The Concept of Terroir: What New Jersey Can Learn from Bordeaux
• 
  
  Dr. Kees van Leeuwen
• 
  
  Professor at University of Bordeaux
• 
  
  Consultant for Chateau Cheval Blanc
• 
  
  Similarities and Differences in the Regional Climate and Soil Characteristics of New Jersey and Bordeaux
• 
  
  Dr. Denyse Lemaire
• 
  
  Professor at Rowan University
• 
  
  President of American Association of Geographers
• 
  
  Climate Component of Terroir-Structure and Suitability for Sustainable Wine Production
• 
  
  Dr. Gregory Jones
• 
  
  Professor and Research Climatologist at Southern Oregon University
• 
  
  Crafting Bordeaux Style Wines in New Jersey
• 
  
  Dr. Catherine Peyrot des Gachons
• 
  
  Enologist and consultant
• 
  
  Ph.D. from University of Bordeaux 

 CD

Bargain Bins (Wines to try for under $20)

© 2010 Donofrio

2007 Can Blau, Montsant (Catalonia, Spain)

Appellation: Montsant (DO)

Region: Catalonia

Grapes: Mazuelo (40%), Syrah (40%), Garnacha (20%)

Food Pairings: Braised Pig, Flank Steak, Most Grilled Meats and Roasts

Montsant is a fairly new appellation in the northeast corner of Spain, not far from Barcelona. It straddles the picturesque wine villages of the Priorat region and shares some of the soil and terrain that has made that region so treasured.

However, what Priorat and Monsant don't typically share is the pricing of their wines. Many of the best Priorat vineyards are on high, steep slopes with nothing but a slippery slate (called licorella) under foot. To farm these vineyards is slow and sometimes dangerous and that is reflected in the high price of many of the wines. Most Montsant vineyards are on gently sloped hills or even cut into flatter terraces along mountain ranges. This type of farming eases the labor requirements and those savings are usually passed on to the consumer. What you get is a Priorat-inspired wine at a fraction of the price...

Tasting Notes:

• 
  
  The color is bright purple at the core and fades to deep ruby. The tears are viscous and stained.
• 
  
  On the nose there is a jammy, stewed fruit aroma of red and black plum, red cherry, and deeper black fruit. The dusty-slate character of the licorella is also detectable underneath.
• 
  
  The palate is filled with flavors of cherry compote and black fruit jam. The pronounced earthiness is also tasted behind the fruit and is balanced with hints of spice. The finish is fairly long, complex, and a touch warm. The tannins and acidity are both elevated, hinting that short-term aging might be beneficial...

CD

Bargain Bins (Wines to try for under $20)

© 2010 Donofrio

2007 Juan Gil, Jumilla (Murcia, Spain)

Appellation: Jumilla (DO)

Region: Murcia

Grape: Monastrell (aka...Mourvedre, Mataro)

Elevage: 12 months, French Oak

Food Pairings: Grilled Meats (Flank/Strip Steak, Lamb, Venison), Medium and Strong Cheeses

When looking for value-priced wines in the sub $20 retail category, I often find myself stuck in the Spanish aisle of my favorite retailers. In part, sipping the wines from that rustic, culturally-diverse peninsula always conjures up images of Hemingway and the "lost generation" for me; I picture sharing a bottle with "papa" and a few "ex-pats" on a hot Andalucian afternoon in an outdoor cafe.

But, aside from my emotional connection to that country and their culture,  there is also a great deal to be said for the drastic improvements in Spanish wines over the past decade and the current levels of consistency found in the lower and moderately-priced wines. Juan Gil Monastrell is one of those wines for me. It's also widely available...

Tasting Notes:

• 
  
  The color is deep purple at the core with full intensity and dark, stained tears.
• 
  
  The nose is filled with dark black fruits like plum, cherry and blackberry. Beneath the fruits, aromas of savory black pepper and a touch of smoke and vanilla.
• 
  
  The palate is rich, warm, and long with intense red and black fruits and a firm backbone of oak. The finish is warm (15% Alcohol) with a touch of bitter astringency that will soften with time, decanting, or the right food.

CD

Polaner Selections-Annual Portfolio Tasting

© 2010 Donofrio

Polaner Selections Annual Portfolio Tasting

March 16, 2010

Gotham Hall, NYC

Great event and some rockstar wines. Check back shortly for tasting notes...CD

Laurita Winery (New Egypt, N.J.)

© 2010 Donofrio

2010 New Jersey "Grape Expectations" Symposium

© 2010 Donofrio

Dessert Wine of the Year

2007 Bellview "Cristallina"

2010 "Grape Expectations" Symposium
Forsgate Country Club
Jamesburg, N.J.

On Feb. 27, a diverse panel of expert speakers and many scores of wine makers and wine lovers flocked to the Forsgate Country Club in Jamesburg, N.J. for the annual information exchange known as Grape Expectations.

The viticultural and enological symposium, now in its 26th year, is sponsored by Rutgers Cooperative Extension and also receives support from the NJ Wine Industry Advisory Council and Garden State Winegrowers Association. The event is designed to present the latest information, news, and legislation to professionals and amateurs involved with any aspect of the grape growing or wine industry in New Jersey.

The day was packed with focused seminars, wine tastings, and lively discussions among growers and wine makers. The seminar topics included:

• Vine Spacing: Is the Trend Toward High Density Planting Going to End?
• Crop Management Resources for 2010.
• Disease Control, A Grower's Perspective.
• Monitoring and Management Considerations for Grape Berry Moth and Other Insects.
• Governor's Cup Review.
• Sangiovese: A Sexy, Seductive, and Sensual Grape Variety.
• Judges on Trial.
• Wine Grape Research Update at NJAES.
• You, the Wine Business and Social Networking.

During the Governor's Cup Review seminar, Jim Quarella of Bellview Winery (Landisville, N.J.) discussed how he made his 2007 Vidal Blanc "Cristallina." This luscious, golden wine was the 2009 Governor's Cup winner for Best Dessert Wine. It was produced from surprisingly young estate vines on his southern New Jersey vineyards.

Using late-picked Vidal grapes and a commercial freezer to extract water and concentrate the grape must, Quarella was able to start fermentation with over 33 brix. After a fairly long, cool ferment, the wine was chilled, clarified, and filtered prior to bottling. The finished wine contained an alcohol level of 13.5 percent and a whopping 10 percent residual sugar.

It is a wine of medium-gold color with thick, full viscosity. The ripe aromas of dried apricot, pineapple, honeysuckle and white flowers dominate. On the palate, the wine is intense, full, and oily in texture. The robust flavors of tropical and exotic fruits persist into a long, pleasing finish. The high alcohol is balanced  by the broad melange of fruit intensity and the final attack of fresh acidity.

This is undoubtedly one of the best wines ever produced with grapes grown in New Jersey. It should be the benchmark for others looking to produce wines of similar style in the Garden State and should serve as the example to those still unconvinced about the future potential of the nation's fifth-largest wine producer.

CD

Chocolate Espresso Martini

© 2000 Donofrio

Chocolate Espresso Martini

by Craig Donofrio

Ingredients:

For Each Drink

-1.5 oz. Godiva Liqueur

-1.5 oz. Stolichnaya Vanil Vodka

-1 Tbsp. Bailey's Irish Cream

-1 Tbsp. Monin Caramel Syrup

-1 oz. Espresso (preferably good, hot, and with crema or schiuma)

-1 Creative Garnish

Method:

• Rim a frosted martini glass with powdered sugar/cocoa powder
• Combine all ingredients except espresso into shaker with ice
• Shake well to combine all ingredients
• Dump in espresso and shake again
• Strain into martini glass
• Garnish rim with biscotti, tuile...get creative!
• ENJOY!

Colts Neck Wine Workshop-Spanish Wines: Tuesday, March 23

© 2010 Donofrio

Colts Neck, N.J.

Colts Neck Wine Workshops

4JG's Winery and Vineyards

Tuesday, March 23

7 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Spanish Wine 

I will be hosting a fun, informative Spanish wine seminar at 4JG's Winery on March 23. The swill-a-bus for the evening will cover:

• Key and Emerging Regions in Spain
• Major Wine Styles
• Sampling Spanish Wine
• Food and Wine Pairing Suggestions

For more information, consult 4JG's Winery at 908.930.8066 or http://www.4jgswinery.com/.